The thin copper strip is placed over the top. The ceramic wafer is placed on one side of the base plate, and the brass wafer on the other. The positive wire in the lead is attached to one side, and the ground/negative lead to the other side. Here is a short overview of how these pickups work: The base plate is actually two separate pieces of metal, joined together and with the insulating spacer wafer attached. The ceramic wafer, brass wafer and top copper strip are not glued/attached to the base plate, and when you take off the shrink tubing they are easily lost, so be sure to leave the shrink material in place while working with them. A padauk biscuit bridge, available from C. The brass base plate of the pickup, with lead and insulating spacer wafer attached.Ħ. The black shrink tubing wrapper that we've removed.Ģ. The photo below shows you the components that make up the violin-style piezo.ġ. IMPORTANT: if you are intending to actually use your violin-style rod piezo, do not cut off the shrink tubing! We'll be cutting this off to show you the inner components. Gitty come with an outer layer of black shrink tubing, which hides the inner parts from view. The violin-style rod piezos that we sell here at C. In this article we will "expose" the innards of one of these great little pickups, and show you how you can modify one to meet your needs. This makes it perfect for using with biscuit-style bridges on resonator builds, or any other time you prefer a wider, flatter pickup with a central lead. While standard rod piezos have a lead that comes off of one end (shown to the right), the violin-style (shown above) has a central lead that sticks straight down from the main piece. These little pickups sound great in cigar box guitars, especially when put through one of our pre-amp units. While a lot of cigar box guitar builder attention goes to disk piezos and standard acoustic guitar-style rod piezos, there is another option that can be a great addition to your toolbag: the violin-style rod piezo.
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